Is this not a gorgeous, entirely arresting, awe-inspiringly beautiful peice?
Thinking about pieces for this blog assignment, I was drawn to either taking a native basket or a blanket as an aesthetic art piece to look at. This will probably not surprise anyone who has seen the fiber-heavy leaning of my blog posts so far in this course!
I was particularly interested in the way that many non-western art pieces which were not produced in what we might think of as the modern age, were originally purposed either as functional or as spiritual objects.
One sees, for instance, baskets and embellished clothing and decorated spears/hunting equipment, that are very much classifiable as art objects. They are, however primarily if not exclusively used and intended as very functional objects. (Interestingly enough, this is a trend in the fine arts world that we see a movement towards in the present day, with ‘art objects’ ranging from dishes and dinnerware to clothes and jewelry to rugs and curtains and desks and tables.)
Alternately, in many non-western, native, or traditional societies, one sees what is now classified as the ‘art’ of that group serving in religious or spiritual functions, such as masks, rattles, pouches, bowls, totems, amulets, and statuary.
The Chilkat blanket serves in these capacities: it can be a purely functional item (keeping one warm, the wool shedding the southeast alaska rain and drizzle), but is and was most commonly worn as ceremonial gear in dances and at potlaches – gatherings that both cement community and serve a religious or spiritual function whether telling the ritual tales or honoring and releasing the spirit of the deceased.
The Chilkat blanket is a beautiful beautiful kind of artwork. It utilizes form-line design principles, the design and symbol system and style considered typical of Tlingit and Haida art work. Formline design creates highly stylized pictorial representations of both humans and the natural world. Images (as well as stories, objects, blankets, masks, and other shaagoon) are culturally ‘copyrighted,’ so any image you see on a Chilkat blanket is either an original composition of the artist or is an image she has been given by an individual, moiety, clan, or family.
Though today’s Chilkat blanket weavers may use pure wool yarn, either commercial or handspun, the traditional (and very very labor intensive) medium was a mixture of cedar bark and goat or sheep wool. Traditionally, the man’s job was to supply the fibers to the woman for her to then process and weave. The inner bark of the cedar tree (naturally a very stringy and pliable substance) was gathered and processed and then spun with wool. The wool would either have been harvested off of the hide of a mountain goat or Dall sheep that had been hunted for meat, or would have been gathered off of rocky outcrops and bushes in small to large clumps in the spring when the wild animals shed. The resulting yarn was dyed with natural dyes.
It took approximately one year for a skilled weaver to create a single blanket.
For a long time, it was thought by anthropologists and researchers that the Chilkat blankets were woven on warp-weighted looms (the warp hanging free from the top beam and weighted by stones in bags tied around the end of the warp) in a similar way as the Ancient Greeks are recorded having woven on their standing looms. This is not the case. The Chilkat blanket is finger twined and finger woven without a fixed tension on the warp. Why was this thought then you may wonder? Because some westerners who had never seen anyone weaving Chilkat blankets saw a picture an early explorer in Alaska had drawn of the loom used to weave the Chilkat blankets. The picture showed bags tied around the ends of the warp threads. So, reasoned the white westerners writing learned books on the subject, they MUST use weights just like the ancient greek! So it was published and became truth for many years.
Because no one thought to speak to or ask the weavers.
Fortunately this misconception has been largely corrected, and the made up western truth is no longer being disseminated. The Chilkat blanket is woven in vertical sections, and the bags on the ends of the warp are just that – bags… scraps of hide or cloth or what have you tied around the ends of the warp to keep them clean, to keep them from fraying and unravelling, and to keep them organized and untangled.
It is also particularly interesting to note the way in which the Chilkat blankets (this phenomenon can also be seen in many other cultural millieus from Innupiaq design and fur work, Athabaskan quilling or beading, Navajo blankets, Indonesian batik and ikat, Guatemalan and Mayan weaving traditions -specifically the huipile, and Peruvian textiles among many many others) serve as a sort of signifying language telling the viewer information about both the weaver/artist and the wearer : where they come from, who they’re related to, what their status is.
http://hudsonhudson.netfirms.com/clarissa/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jennie_Thlunaut